Airplac Creative Kit:
4 Airplac Premier 5 mm
3 Airplac Black 5 mm
1 Airplac Kraft 5 mm
1 Airplac CORE 5 mm
1 Airplac Graphic 3 mm
2 TAC self-adhesive sheets
Other tools and accessories:
1 cutting mat
1 precision cutter (start the project with a fresh blade)
Spare cutter blades
1 metal ruler
1 pencil
1 eraser
Black markers in various thicknesses (1 mm, 3 mm)
Prerequisites for completing the project:
Patience
Focus
A clear, uncluttered workspace
The first part of the tutorial consists of transferring the templates onto the different foam-board sheets.
Download and print the templates on thick paper (at least 90 gsm) to make tracing the outlines easier.
La première partie du tuto consiste à reproduire les gabarits sur les différentes planches de cartons mousses.
Télécharger puis imprimer les gabarits sur du papier épais (au moins 90 grammes) pour faciliter le tracé des contours.
Cut out the printed templates.
Be sure to cut inside the template line to keep the dimensions accurate.
Using a ruler is recommended for straight geometric shapes.
Transfer the templates onto the foam-board sheets.
Caution: Since the black foam board is available in limited quantity, carefully follow the layout instructions in the placement guide to optimize its use.
Using a pencil, trace the outlines of the templates onto the foam board.
Fill an entire foam-board sheet before starting the cutting process.
Tracing tips on foam board:
Position your templates in the corners of the foam-board sheets to obtain clean right angles, which will make assembly easier later on.
The tracing doesn’t need to be perfect for organic shapes like mountains—slight imperfections can create interesting contours.
You can erase the pencil lines after tracing if needed.
For the box, take measurements and use a ruler instead of the templates, as a full sheet of black foam board is required.
Drawing on the elements (optional)
Before moving on to cutting, it’s best to complete all the drawing work, as it will be more difficult (though not impossible) to draw on the pieces once they are cut out.
It is recommended to use black markers with 1 mm and 3 mm tips for the illustrations.
You can follow the illustrations provided with the templates, or create your own completely different designs.
Cutting
Once all the elements have been traced and illustrated, you can begin cutting them out. The number of pieces to cut varies depending on the level you’ve chosen. Here are the techniques and tips that will help you achieve clean, precise cuts.
Important notes about cutting:
If this is your first time working with foam board, it’s useful to get familiar with different cutting techniques. Don’t hesitate to draw shapes on a sheet of AIRPLAC PREMIER WHITE 5 mm to practice various cuts (straight lines, curves, angles, etc.).
Caution:
Black foam board (AIRPLAC BLACK 5 mm) is limited, so make sure you’re confident before you begin cutting into it.
Important for this level:
For the box components and the mechanism, precise cutting is essential for the success of the project. Using the templates, combined with accurate tracing techniques, will ensure properly sized pieces and make the final assembly much easier.
Foam-board cutting tips
Always keep the cutter blade positioned outside the shape you’re cutting to avoid slipping into the important part of the piece.
For straight geometric shapes, use a ruler to ensure perfectly straight cuts, even if you already traced the lines using the template.
If the blade becomes dull, don’t hesitate to replace it to avoid tearing or damaging the foam board.
Keep all foam-board offcuts produced during the cutting process.
They will be useful later for creating supports during the scenery-assembly stage (and they may also come in handy for future projects).
Techniques for cutting rounded shapes
A multi-step cutting method is recommended:
start with a rough cut, then make several additional passes to gradually refine and smooth the curved shape.
See the foam-board cutting technique video corresponding to this step.
For the moon, cut the circle using small, gradual cuts while keeping the cutter blade perfectly vertical.
Go over the circle repeatedly, pressing the blade deeper each time until you cut through the full thickness of the foam board.
See the foam-board cutting technique video corresponding to this step.
Technique for cutting obtuse angles:
For shapes like fir trees, start by roughly cutting out the overall silhouette.
Then trim each angle by cutting from the center toward the outside of the shape, crossing the cutting lines.
See the foam-board cutting technique video corresponding to this step.
Cutting and texturing the clouds
You can use the back of the craft knife or a pencil to texture the clouds, gently pressing to create slight bumps and a subtle relief effect.
Cutting the cloud shapes with a slight angle can also add texture.
The natural texture of foam core is an advantage for this type of shape.
Half-cutting technique (used only for constructing the box)
The first step is to make several light passes with the cutter, without pressing too hard, so as not to cut through the second layer of foam board.
Next, place a piece of foam board under the part you are cutting to raise it slightly. Hold the cutter parallel to the table and cut along the edge of the piece. You can make several passes to ensure a clean cut.
The final step is to scrape off the excess foam with the cutter blade.
See the cutting-technique video corresponding to this step.
Through-cutting technique:
For cuts that need to go all the way through, place a piece of foam board under the part you’re cutting to make perforation easier and cleaner.
Checking and assembling the elements
Before beginning assembly, use the printed templates to verify that all the pieces have been cut correctly.
Assembling the base and back panel
The method is the same for all three levels. Only the top and front parts of the base differ in Level 3, as they include notches designed for the gears.
First, apply glue to three edges of each side panel (do not apply glue to the edge that will rest on the ground).
Attach these side panels to the bottom edge of the back rectangle.
Apply glue to the back edge of the base’s top panel, then attach this piece above the two side panels.
Apply glue to the top edge of the front panel and attach it to the front to close the base.
Assembling the scenery
First, cut small pieces of foam board that will serve as spacers to place between certain layers.
The order of the layers is numbered on the first page of the templates.
Important: Layers 2, 7, and 8 are empty.
The assembly order is important. Refer to the following steps.
Assembly – Step 1:
Begin with the kraft mountain (layer no. 3).
Glue three small spacers, each made of two layers of foam board.
Next, apply TAC adhesive to the bottom of the mountain and to the three spacers, then attach the entire assembly to the back panel and the support.
Assembly – Step 2:
Glue the white mountain (layer no. 4) directly onto the kraft mountain (layer no. 3).
Assembly – Step 3 (if the castle is illustrated):
It is best to pre-assemble the elements from layers no. 5 and no. 6 at the same time.
You will need:
Two spacer thicknesses on the mountain:
one 5 mm spacer
one 3 mm Air Graphic spacer
Two 5 mm spacers on the castle.
These spacers will ensure the correct spacing and depth before gluing the layers in place.
Assembly – Step 4:
Use the element placement diagram to help check the positions and assemble the pieces correctly.
Assembly – Step 5:
Assemble the trees, mountains, and fox in the same way as in Level 1.
If you prefer, the illustrated fox can replace the black fox.
Assembling the box:
First, apply adhesive to the edges of the two side panels, as well as 0.5 mm along one of their sides (tip: use the edges of the TAC sheet for this).
Attach these sides to the back of the box, aligning them with the half-cut edges.
Repeat the same process with the top panel of the box:
apply glue to three edges (the sides and the back), plus 0.5 mm along the three sides.
Once everything is assembled, check that the scenery fits properly inside the box by sliding it in. Then remove it.
⚠️ Important:
If you plan to add lighting inside the box, the remaining steps must be completed after Step 6: “Lighting installation.”
Next, apply glue to the entire front panel.
Reinsert the scenery, then attach the front face of the box.
Lighting installation:
This final part covers the installation of the lighting (if this option was chosen for Level 2).
The first step is to make a small hole using a pencil on the left side of the support, at the level of the foremost black mountain, so that the light string can pass through.
Next, pass the entire light string through, keeping the battery pack hidden underneath the support.
Using a hot glue gun, attach the light string at several points distributed along the entire inner perimeter of the frame.
Be careful to position the lights 0.5 mm from the edge all the way around so the front panel of the box can be inserted at the end.
In the upper corners, create a small cluster of LEDs (about three).
Try to position all the LEDs symmetrically on both sides of the box.
Once this step is complete, glue the front panel in place to finish Level 2.
Showcase completed — Level 2
Did you enjoy this project and want to try difficulty Levels 1 and 3 of this model?
Visit the Tutorials page!
